2. Gluing up the billets

Is it gluing or glueing?

It's a messy business it is! I'm very thankful the Z splice had already been cut for me, (AND the billets debarked, thanks again Carson...) because if i was to do it myself, with a hand saw, I would have ruined the billets.

Heeding the advice of experts, I'll introduce some back set or reflex, to counter string follow later on, as the stave is being tillered (like i know what i'm talking about). The first thing that puzzles me is that if the billets are glued up with a few degrees of reflex, will that increase the gaps in the splice, on the belly side of the bow? I assume the glue will fill it all up. Be positive! The worst that can happen is that the gluing doesn't work and i have to start again.

Does reflexing compromise the proper fit of the splice?

*Note to myself. Using an epoxy resin with slow hardener. Never used this before. I tested it on some cheap piece of wood and I don't much like it, but I'm going to go ahead anyway*

Firstly, it's best to sand the splice surfaces to improve adhesion, wipe them clean with alcohol, and as they dry, prepare the epoxy mix.

Applying the glue. The Wife's muffin paper cups are very useful for mixing epoxy.

Applying the glue is very messy as it's dripping everywhere, it's not like white wood glue that sticks to the surface a lot more. Anyway, glue was applied very generously all over the splice surfaces on both billets then clamping one billet firmly to the table, the other was pressed into the splice, firmly, and at the required angle. I've got spring clamps handy to help me keep the billets in place.
I can see there are still gaps in the splice, so the rest of the glue was poured into them, then wrapped a large elastic band around the splice and clamped it all down with a C-clamp.

As it's fairly cold, i might leave it there 2-3 days just to be safe.
Today's post is not particularly interesting to read; I won't bother double checking it. Out!